One riddle that remains to be solved is the purpose of these structures, visible in practically everybody's fields on both the mountain and sea sides - there was never anyone around whom I could ask (but I'll keep trying). In the left-hand part of the photo you can see areas where rice straw has been spread on the beach sand, presumably for drying fresh seaweed or other catch before sending it to market. This is my best guess at this point; stay tuned for confirmation (or a red-faced apology). [Note: after posting this, I figured out what you've probably already realized: the structures you see here are undoubtedly the rolled-up rice straw mats. Duh.]

On the fourth day of the tour, I finally encountered the kind of scenery I'd expected to see in Hokkaido: rolling hills and farms. Up this far north, the land levels, and even the normally hilly coastal road turns practically level - only in certain sections are there rolling ups and downs. Here you also start to SMELL Hokkaido - meaning lots of barns, cows, agriculture and all of the associated odors from same.