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Here’s what it’s like to cycle through just the lower (untouristed) half of that main street in Fukiya.

If for some reason you have to go back from Fukiya and see Shiraishi another time, you could do worse than taking the route that goes past Matsubara “Kiri no Umi” (ocean of mist). I don’t know if it’s like this all the time, but it must be often enough that there’s even a sign and a lookout you can climb up to in order to view it. I didn’t bother since I thought the view from the road was spectacular enough.

Here’s a panorama of one of the curves along the final descent into the city of Takahashi (visible in the distance on the left).