Here, almost at the summit, the scenery has changed even more dramatically, with sulphur vents everywhere you look (or smell), tiny ponds (with the same smell), wild animals, and very unusual scenery. The summit has several lodges and campsites; spending the night here rather than further down the hill would be a good idea. Spending an extra day to wander around would be an even better idea if you have the time.

Eventually I started up the long climb to Ebino Kogen (kogen meaning plateau). Even in this photo, considerably before the summit, you can see that the foliage is beginning to look very different from the rest of Japan.... and in fact Ebino was Japan's first official national park.