The road around the north end of the lake was another thousand-meter climb - one of two that I had to do that day - and the top was completely socked in with clouds (meaning no view). But my objective for this day was really Oirase, a picturesque river valley that extends northeast from the lake for twenty or thirty kilometers. Except for the road running right next to it, it's quite lovely, with green mossy scenery that at times looked more like a tropical paradise than a forest in northern Japan.

Unlike the people in cars, who had to find parking (nonexistent) or move on, I could pull my bikemobile off the road anytime - and I did so often. Paths stretch along the riverbank for miles, and lots of families were out this holiday season strolling along the banks. I went as slowly as my time allowed, then powered up the second summit to yet another hot springs (and yet more rain).