As you approach Matsumoto, the mountains grow more distant and the traffic increases. You can make this part of the route nicer by taking the nice local route 306 that diverges from the national highway and takes you to Toyoshina about 10 km outside Matsumoto. It’s also elevated in parts, offering great views in both directions.

Matsumoto Castle is arguably Japan’s most famous black castle, and it’s definitely worth the entrance fee to go inside and see the interior and the artifacts inside. (The castle keep, built in the 16th century, is still intact and is not surprisingly a National Treasure.) As you can see from this photo, the exterior is also spectacular, with swans in the moat and great views of the now far-off mountains.