Once you've cycled to the top from the eastern side, you can coast - almost literally. There are only a few rises from here all the way to Kobe - the only uphills to speak of are two relatively short stretches at Futatabi that you need to get over before shooting straight down the steep downhill into central Kobe. On the stiflingly hot day in late July that I spent cycling up here to take these photos, the hydrangea were in full bloom, as if to congratulate me on making it to the top.

Many of the buildings at the top fall into one of three categories: hotels (both regular hotels and those for, shall we say, short-term stays for lovers), lodges owned by major corporations (and reserved for use by their employees, and therefore empty for most of the year), and places like this: restaurants that take advantage of the spectacular view. Many of them do their best business at night when people drive up to enjoy the aforementioned million-dollar view.