Here is an example of the up and down road... and some of the greenery that more than compensates. It really is like cycling through a nature preserve: virtually no trace of human habitation for long stretches.
The protests against the U. S. military bases on Okianwa in recent years are well known. However, in many cases their target is the Japanese government: demanding an answer to the question of why some 80% of all U. S. military facilities in Japan are on tiny Okinawa. Nevertheless, I saw many protest signs like this one just outside a U. S. military facility. The long-running controversy over the construction of a new U. S. Marine heliport has triggered widespread opposition and massive protests for years.