The route officially began at the Miho Peninsula, down on the coast a few kilometers south of Shimizu Station. The tip of the peninsula offered not only a lovely beach but a spectacular view of the famous peak, framed by sand and waves and dozens of elementary school kids on an excursion. (They paid me no attention for a change: what's a foreigner when there are clams to be discovered?) The first time I saw Mt. Fuji, years ago, it was because I just happened to glance out the train window, and I was astonished to see how it simply rises up out of nowhere. Up to then, I'd assumed that the famous woodblock print artists were being overly sylistic. Now, as in the case of Japanese pines that stick out at impossible angles, I know the artists were just drawing what they saw.

The Pacific Coast Bicycle Route is what I'd come to check out. Years ago I'd heard that it was eventually supposed to go all the way to Wakayama along the coast... but I'd found it practically non-existent. This time (2004) I had better luck; long sections were actually in place. However, the signs for each section of the route have a habit of simply ending and not telling you where or if the route continues on. I spent a lot of time looking for bikepaths... and until KANcycling can go back and do a really thorough job of guiding you through the twists and turns, I suspect you will thrash about a bit as well. It will still be worth it.